el GaGá de San Luis

The festival of Gagá is an annual procession in Dominican Republic, and a spiritual promise given to the lwa – the spirits of Vodú. It is said to have originated in Haiti by slaves and their families working the sugar plantations or ‘Bateys.’ The Gagá procession is a ritual promise to the spirits and reflects the historical impacts of slavery, race, culture, dance and music. It also includes rituals of sacrifice, initiation, baptism, blessing, purification and healing.

Bleo, a Vodú priest and head of El GaGá de San Luis on the outskirts of Santo Domingo. Bleo has some dozen or so alters at his home and compound. At 38 years old, Bleo inherited the GaGá upon the death of his grandfather 10 years ago.

He is promised to the GaGá for life and it must be continued by the eldest of his 3 children and grandchildren.

Each Mayor (Dance Major) is responsible for financing and making his own costume.

The festival includes the rituals of initiation and baptism. Each member of the procession must be initiated in order to take part in the procession. Here, a woman undergoes initiation ‘in the chair’. Those initiated, commit to a promise the spirits for 3, 7, 14 or 21 years. If they fail in their promise then it is said they are cursed for the remainder of the their lives.

The procession travels across Dominican Republic in a convoy of buses for 3 days stopping and performing at towns/bateys known only to the Vodú priest. Taneiris, a 19 year old Queen looks out of the window of the bus as rain lashed down outside. Traditionally, the GaGá is only performed in the blazing heat of day, and the Queens are eager to protect their dresses from damage by wind and rains.

Andre, a 48 yearl old Mayi (Magician) performs a magic ritual at a crossroads.

The intense drumming and playing of instruments often results in dancers entering a state of trance, being possessed by one of a number of spirits.

The participants survives mostly on a diet of adrenalin and rum for 3-4 days.

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